Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city is hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to discover these tales and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
